In the Southeast, I believe that flavor is expressed through memory. This is because the dining tables of the states in this region are filled with traditions and influences that have evolved, bringing new ways to delight our palates. In exploring the flavors of Brazil, this area offers us crispy pork cracklings, matured cheeses, and even wines from grapes grown in what were once considered unlikely places. To start my journey through the Southeast, I embarked on a special season with CNN Travel & Gastronomy: Flavors of Brazil in the Vale do Paraíba, a historic region between the Mantiqueira and Mar mountain ranges, known for its fascinating landscapes and reliance on culinary traditions as a hallmark of identity and development. The surrounding areas played a crucial role during the Coffee Cycle and today host a technological hub also focused on food research. In Guaratinguetá, this is reflected in rice plantations, which are a strong symbol of Brazil.
The Vale do Paraíba maintains a significant tradition in national rice cultivation, being one of the main rice-producing areas in the state of São Paulo. Chef Alex Atala, who accompanied me on this dive into the history and innovations of rice, points out that while people are familiar with a bag of rice, many don’t realize the richness and diversity of rice fields. He emphasizes that rice fields are not only rich in flora and fauna but also in the human aspect.
The origins of rice are diffuse, but experts suggest that the cereal was already being cultivated around 3,000 BC, originating in Southeast Asia. Undeniably essential in the Brazilian diet, rice was cultivated spontaneously in the country and then farmed across different lands by Portuguese colonizers in Maranhão, Pernambuco, Pará, and Bahia. With the opening of the ports by Dom João VI in 1808, larger quantities of rice began entering the country, boosting its popularity and becoming a staple in daily meals over time.
Today, it’s impossible to think of our daily meal without the unbeatable combination of rice and beans. On average, Brazil produces about 10 million tons of rice each harvest, making it one of the largest producers in the Americas and placing it among the top 15 in the world, according to the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA).
Given Brazil’s diverse range of foods, Alex Atala is adamant about naming cassava as the queen of Brazil, as he told me during a special lunch at the acclaimed D.O.M. I then posed the question: could rice be the king of the country? “Rice is the fuel, the everyday staple. Cassava has its place, bearing historical significance, but rice holds the strength of daily labor,” concludes the chef.
Beyond the popular white rice, the Vale do Paraíba is making strides in the production and research of special rice types. What sets special rice apart from white rice? “They are grains that typically have lower production and aim for a higher market value. But to achieve this, they must deliver on color, aroma, texture, and, fundamentally, flavor,” explains Atala. In the Vale do Paraíba, a key player in this field is Ruzene, specializing in producing high-quality rice. “We began with black rice and moved on to other varieties, creating our own hybrids as well,” says Maria Ruzene, an agronomist, as we walked through the research fields.
In addition to black rice, they produce arborio, basmati, jasmine, red rice, and mini rice, among others. All of this involves significant investment in research and technology, but when I look at the fields, I see the human touch and skills passed down through generations. “There are hundreds of thousands of rice varieties worldwide. Here, we focus on around 10 to 12 varieties,” notes José Francisco Ruzene Junior, the administrative director of Ruzene. Alongside him, I see samples of the company’s production, including white, brown, and arborio rice.
The white rice, more common on our tables, is called so because it undergoes a refining process that removes the husk and bran. Brown rice, true to its name, retains the husk and bran, making it rich in fibers and firmer in texture. Arborio is a type of Italian short-grain rice, rich in starch – ideal for risottos.
To conclude the visit, Maria prepared rice cooked only in water to highlight its taste. Characteristic of its reddish color, the mini red rice offers sweetness and high fiber content in its structure. My favorite, however, is the mini black rice, which is highly aromatic but requires a longer cooking time.
Beyond discussing the different types of rice, what better way to appreciate them than in a well-crafted dish? The choice was mini rice from Guaratinguetá, featuring small, round grains with a soft texture and mild aroma.
Together with Alex Atala, I enjoyed lunch at Dalva e Dito, which celebrated 15 years last year. Opened in 2009 in Jardins, the restaurant embodies Brazilian cuisine and its “Brazilianness.” At the table, chef Netto Moreira, who manages the daily operations, served us mini rice with octopus, shrimp, and broccoli, a dish from the regular menu. The vibrant flavors pleased Alex.
And what about connecting the dining table with producers? “It’s a prerogative of our current culinary landscape. It’s not just about taking care of the customer; it’s about valuing the product and the people who produce these ingredients. Without this, nothing makes sense. Thus, gastronomy proves it’s not just about nourishment but an entire chain and the strongest social network globally,” concludes the chef.
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